Art of shoemaking



Aug. 6, 1935. R. H. I AwsoN ART oF sHoEMAKING Y Filed May 9; 1933 2 shee'ts-sheet .1

WVM/TUR Aug- 6, 1 935 R. H. LAWSON 2,010,092

ART OF SHOEMAKING Filed May 9, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 V VENTURI.

Patented Aug. 6, 1935 UNITED STATES ARTV oF SHOEMAKING Robert H. Lawson, Beverly, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N; J., a corporation of NeWJersey Application May 9, 1933, Serial No. 670,094

2o' claims. (c1. Liz- 145) This invention relates to the art of shoemaking and particularly to methods of preparing shoe uppers for assembly upon their lasts, to methods of relatively locating them preparatory to as- 5 sembly, to shoe uppers so` prepared, and to appliances for use in the locating operation.

In the assembling operation as usually performed, a counter, for example a molded counter,

, is coated with paste and inserted between the i adjusted peripherally and heightwise or" the last to locate the back seam properly with respect to the rear end of the last and to provide the desired amount of material to be wiped over the heel-seat of the last. A tack is then driven through the upper and counter land through the shoe materials adjacent to theback seam, and the upper iswiped in at the rear end of the heelseat and secured by a tack. The work is now ready for the pulling-over operation by which the upper is tensioned longitudinally of the last and the forepart strained laterally of the last and located properly with respect thereto. The longitudinal tensioning of the upper by the pulling-over machine tends to draw downwardly the margin of the upper at opposite sides of the shank of the shoe. This `tendency is particularly evident if the upper is scant lengthwise of the last and for that reason requires more than the usual longitudinal tensioning. Beforethe side lasting operation is performed it isr desirable that the margin of the upper at opposite` sides of the shank of the shoe be brought within easy reach of the grippers of the side lasting machine. To eiect this result it is the usual practice to mount the last on a spindle after Athe pulling-over operation and to pull up the margin of the upper with hand grippers. It is also desirable, before the side lasting operation is` performed, to pull up the lining in the region of the` Wings ofV the counter in order to remove from the lining any` thermore, in performing these operations the bond between the counter and the lining and the bond between the counter and the upper, which it is desirable to maintain, ymay have to be destroyed or impaired. This situation is usual Whenever pulled-,over uppers remain on their racks overnight awaiting the side lasting operation.

Objects of this invention are to dispense with readjustments of the upper, lining and the wings of the counter after the pulling-over operation and prior to the sidelasting operation and to facilitate the assembling and lasting operations.

With these objects in view, the invention comprises, in one aspect, a shoe upper prepared for assembly upon its last and having a yielding and preferably an elastic connection between those portions of the upper and lining which engage the wing of the counter at one side ci the shoe and the portions of the upper and lining which engage the wing of the counter atthe other side of the shoe whereby said portions oi the upper and lining are drawn toward each other to such an extent that the upper in the region of said connection is narrower than its last. Such elastic connection may also include the Wings of the counter themselves or may merely connect the portion of the lining adjacent to the wing ofthe counter at one side of the shoe with the portion of the lining adjacent to the wing of the counter at the other side of the shoe. In the latter case, the opposite sides of the lining will be held toward each other, thus pulling the lining away from the upper and opening a pocket between the upper and lining for the ready reception of the counter.

The method of relatively locating shoe parts on a last preparatory to assembling comprises, in one aspect of the invention mounting the shoe parts upon a last and effecting a continuous tension of the margins of the shoe parts from opposite sides of their heel ends inwardly over the heel seat.

In another aspect the invention comprises yieldingly and preferably elastically connecting the opposite sides of a shoe lining adjacent to the location of the wings of the counter, introducing a counter between the upper andthe lining and inserting a last in the upper to cause the connection to be extended and the lining to be drawn against the sides of the last in the vicinity of the counterywings.

of the shoe parts. The spring may serve to connect two or more of the shoe parts and if so employed it has the added advantage of retaining those parts in predetermined relation to each other by holding .the spring receiving openings in alinement.

These and other aspects and features of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing an upper, a counter, and a lining relatively located upon a last, the margin at the heel end of the lining being provided with an elastic connecting strip;

Fig. 2 is a transverse section through the heel end of the last and shoe parts illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a. perspective view of the heel end of an upper and lining provided With the elastic connector illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a plan View of the heel end of a last with an upper, a counter, and a lining relatively located thereon and a hairpin spring having its ends passed through openings provided in the margins of the shoe part; and

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the heel end of a last with an upper, a counter, and a lining relatively located thereon, a hairpin spring, as shown in Fig. 4, connecting the margins of the upper and counter, and a elastic strip as shown in Fig. l, connecting the margin at opposite sides of the lining.

Referring to Fig. l a last it has mounted thereon an upper l2 provided with a lining M which is stitched to the upper by a seam l5. A molded counter l 8 is arranged between the upper and the lining at the heel end of the shoe parts. An elastic strip 2G, such as a piece of elastic webbing or tape, is fastened, for example, by staples 22, to opposite marginal portions of the lining lll at approximately the heel breast line. Preferably, the elastic strip is permanently retained in the shoe.

As shown in Fig. 3, the elastic strip 20 is preferably secured to the lining lll before the shoe parts are mounted upon the last so that the margins of the lining at opposite sides of the upper are held toward each other thereby providing a sufcient space between the lining and the upper for the reception of the molded counter and rendering the insertion of the counter easy.

In Fig. 4 there is illustrated an alternative connecting means in the form of a hairpin spring 24 the legs of which are crossed at 26 and the opposite ends of which are bent downwardly at 23 (Fig. 5) and inwardly at 3E). The ends of the spring extend through holes in the shoe parts which have been brought into alinement for the passage of the spring therethrough. The ends 32 of the spring 24 extend transversely of the last bottom in substantially parallel relation thereto and preferably rest upon a rib 34 of an insole 36 on the last bottom, thereby retaining the margins of the shoe parts from misplacement heightwise of the last. The spring 24 also urges the margins of the shoe parts inwardly against the edge of the last bottom.

Referring now to Fig. 5 the connecting spring Z4 may be employed in conjunction with the elastic connector 2G. As illustrated, the hairpin spring 24 is arranged to support the wings of the counter together with the opposite marginal portions of the upper while the elastic connector is arranged between the opposite marginal portions of the lining.

The hairpin spring 24 preferably is retained in operative position upon the shoe parts until the completion of the side lasting operation. If necessary the spring 24 may be swung rearwardly of the shoe in order to avoid interference with the grippers of the side lasting machine. After the side lasting operation the spring 24 is disengaged from the shoe parts by pressing the legs of the spring toward each other in order to move the ends of the spring away from each other and out of engagement with the margins of the shoe parts.

The preferred method of the present invention as practiced in the use of the elastic connector 2E) consists first in connecting the marginal portions at opposite sides of the heel end of the lining by means of the elastic connector, then inserting the counter S8 between the lining and the upper, and finally mounting the shoe parts upon a last. Preferably both sides of the counter are coated with adhesive whereby the shoe parts at their heel ends are united, and thus it will be seen that the elastic connector serves not only to remove wrinkles from the lining and to hold the lining in position upon the last but also to hold the counter and the upper in updrawn position at the heel and shank portions of the shoe. If the shoe is not provided with a counter the elastic connector will nevertheless having a tendency to draw the upper upwardly upon the last and to retain it in updrawn position by reason of the seam It uniting the lining and upper.

The preferred method of the present invention, as practiced in connection with the hairpin spring 2li, consists in forming a hole in the marginal portion of the heel end of each of the shoe parts at opposite sides thereof, each of said holes having a predetermined location such that their alinement serves to locate the parts in the desired relative position. Either before or after the shoe parts have been mounted upon their last the openings in the marginal portions of the shoe parts are brought into alinement and the ends of the hairpin spring are passed therethrough.

As an alternative method the marginal portions at the heel ends of the shoe parts may be brought into predetermined relation to each other before the holes are formed therein, and said holes may be formed .either before or after the shoe parts have been mounted on their last.

If the hairpin spring 24 and the elastic connector 2E) are both employed the elastic connector is fastened to the lining before the shoe parts are mounted upon their last, and the hairpin spring is arranged upon the shoe parts either before or after the shoe parts are mounted upon the last.

While the elastic connector 29 is herein illustrated in connection with the margin of the lining it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to such a use of the elastic connector and it is also to be understood that the hairpin spring 24 is not limited to the functions disclosed in Figs. 4 and 5 but may, if desired, be employed in connection with a single shoe part.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That method of relatively locating shoe parts upon a last which comprises mounting the shoe `partsuponalast and effecting a continuous tension of the margins ofthe shoe parts from oppo- `sitevsides Lof their heel ends inwardly over the 2.'.That method of 4relatively locating upon a last shoe parts including a lining which method comprisesmountingthe shoe parts upon a last and effecting a continuous tension of the margin of the lining from opposite sides of its heel end inwardly over the heel seat.

3. That method of relatively locating an upper, a counter and a lining upon a last which comprises locating close together the marginal portions of the lining at opposite sides of its heel end, then providing a yielding connector between said marginal portions, then inserting a counter between the lining and upper and iinally mounting the shoe parts upon the last.

4. That method of relatively locating an upper, a counter, and a lining upon a last which comprises locating in close proximity the marginal portions of the lining at opposite sides of its heel end, then connecting said marginal portions by means of an elastic strip, then inserting a counter between the lining and upper, and finally mounting the shoe parts upon a last and stretching the elastic strip.

5. That method of relatively locating shoe parts upon a last which comprises mounting the shoe parts upon a last and thereafter yieldingly connecting opposite marginal portions of the shoe parts.

6. That method of relatively locating upon a last an upper having a, lining stitched thereto which method comprises mounting the upper and lining upon a last and thereafter yieldingly connecting the marginal portions of the lining at opposite sides of the shoe.

7. That method of relatively locating upon a last shoe parts comprising an upper and a lining, and a counter positioned therebetween and adhesively secured thereto, which method comprises mounting the shoe parts upon a last and elastically connecting the marginal portions of the lining at opposite sides of the heel end of the shoe.

8. That method of relatively locating shoe parts upon a last which comprises forming openings in the marginal portions of the shoe parts at opposite sides of their heel ends, mounting the shoe parts upon a last and passing the ends of a connecting spring through said openings.

9. That method of relatively locating upon a last an upper having a lining stitched thereto which method comprises forming openings in the marginal portion of the lining at opposite sides of its heel end, mounting the upper and lining upon a last and thereafter passing the ends of a connecting spring through the openings formed in the margin of the lining.

10. That method of relatively locating upon a last shoe parts comprising an upper, a lining and a counter which method comprises forming openings in the marginal portions of the upper and counter at opposite sides of their heel ends, arranging the counter between the upper and the lining, bringing the openings in the margin of the counter into registration with the openings in the margin of the upper and thereafter passing the ends of av connecting spring through said openings.

1l. Ilhat method of relatively locating upon a last shoe parts comprising an upper and a lining, and a counter positioned therebetween and adhesively secured thereto, which method comprises providing elastic connection between the marginal portions of the heel end of the lining at opposite sides of the shoe, and thereafter mounting the shoe parts upon a last.

12. That method of relatively locating upon a last shoeparts comprising an upper, a lining and a counter: which method comprises yieldingly connecting the marginal portions of the heel end of the lining at opposite sides of the shoe, treating both sides of the counter with adhesive, positioning the counter between the upper and the lining and thereafter mounting the shoe parts upon a last.

13. That method of relatively locating upon a last shoe parts comprising an upper, a lining and a counter which method comprises elastically connecting opposite marginal portions of the lining and forming openings in the marginal portions of the upper and counter at opposite sides of their heel ends, arranging the counter between the upper and the lining, bringing the openings in the margin of the counter into registration with the openings in the margin of the upper and thereafter passing the ends of a connecting spring through said openings.

14. That method of relatively locating upon a last shoe parts comprising an upper, a lining and a counter which method comprises forming openings in the marginal portions of the upper, counter and lining at opposite sides of their heel ends, inserting the counter between the upper and the lining, bringing the openings in the margin of the counter into registration with the openings in the marginal portions of the upper and lining and passing the ends of a connecting spring through said openings.

l5. VA shoe upper prepared to be assembled upon its last and having its opposite sides adjacent to the location of the counter wings yieldingly connected and thereby drawn toward each other to such an extent that the upper in the region of said connection is narrower than its last.

16. A shoe upper prepared to be assembled upon its last and having its opposite sides adjacent to the location of the counter wings elastically connected and thereby drawn toward each other` to such an extent that the upper in the region of said connection is narrower than its last 17. A shoe upper prepared to be assembled upon its last and having its lining at opposite sides adjacent to the location of the counter wings directly connected by an elastic tape of a length to maintain the opposite edges of the lining adjacent to and spaced from each other whereby the upper, in the region of said connection, is narrower than its last.

18. An upper prepared for assembly upon its last and having the portion of the lining adjacent to the location of the wing of the counter at one side of the shoe connected with the portion of the lining adjacent to the location of the wing of the counter at the other side of the shoe, said connection being adapted to be extended when the upper is placed upon its last and acting to hold the lining against the opposite sides of the last adjacent to the wings of the counter.

19. An upper prepared for assembly upon its last and having the portion of the lining adjacent to the location of the wing of the counter' at one side of the shoe elastically connected with the portion of the lining adjacent to the location of the wing of the counter at the other side of the shoe, said connection being adapted to be stretchedV when the upper is placed upon its last and acting to hold the lining resiliently against the opposite sides of the last adjacent to the Wings of the counter.

20. An upper prepared for assembly upon its last and having the portion of the lining adjaoent to the location of the Wing of the counter at one side of the shoe connected with the portion of the lining adjacent to the location of the Wing of the counter 'at the'other side of the shoe, said connection comprising a short length of elastic tape adapted to be stretched when the upper is placed upon its last and acting to hold the lining against the opposite sides of the last adjacent to the Wings of the counter.

ROBERT H. LAWSON. 

